The House at Spindrift

The main house - (Click to enlarge photos)

Chapter 29

I was so pleased last night when I discovered some coloured slides I had taken in 1968 of the Spindrift estate to complement my black and white photos. For me it was like finding a small treasure in these few transparencies. Unfortunately I don't yet have a slide scanner for uploading them to my computer but for the time being these images will suffice, even though they were reproduced in a low tech manner by using a strong light and a close camera on macro. The above photo shows the main house located at the back of the property at Portals Nous.

The Beach at Portals Nous 1968

My story of Dina Moore and the Bowdens will continue after showing these photos of their beautiful old Mediterranean house and garden.

Ajoining the outer street wall by the entrance was the small house of the Mallorquin couple Catalina and Juan who were the estate caretakers. Catalina cooked and looked after the house while Juan tended the garden and did repairs.

I remember the kitchen of the main house being fitted with old-style double stone sinks with tiny drainholes, used in the manner which I still use today for dishwashing...left side filled with hot, soapy water for washing, right side filled with cold water for rinsing. It was an interesting house although I didn't see all the inside rooms.

The large dining room table was frequently covered with books, newspapers and cuttings which Dina Moore was preparing to save or send to friends who could be interested in news items she had found. I often received envelopes of clippings from her with handwritten notes on her stationery adorned with the image of the Spindrift seahorse informing me of some upcoming musical event in Palma, or a writeup about The Guitar Centre or the Juventudes Musicales, an organization dedicated to furthering young peoples' interest in music.

Here is again the photo print of me in that yellow dress I made before leaving Vancouver. I realized later that this was taken in the garden at Spindrift, not in Palma as I had previously thought. Part of the house is visible behind.

Here is a view across the small cove as seen while standing in the garden.

In the centre of the garden, up a narrow winding path was a small one room stone cottage built in the Mediterranean style, with tiled roof and windows looking over the garden and sea.

The Cottage Studio

It was fitted out as a small library with books, a table and comfortable sofa. Dina Moore Bowden kindly invited me to come and spend time in this quiet studio to practice my guitar and read her books. It was a lovely retreat, where I sat alone reading for the first time George Sand's book "A Winter in Mallorca". I read it there, albeit slowly, in the original French as "Un Hiver à Majorque". The name George Sand was the pseudonym of the French novelist Amandine Aurore Lucile Dupin who spent a miserable and cold winter of 1838 - 1839 with Frédéric Chopin in the Carthusian monastery in Valldemossa.

That was the first time I had heard that it could be very chilly in Mallorca in winter time. I had brought no coat with me from Canada, thinking Spain was the land of sunshine, every day of the year!

Here I am by the gate, wearing again my straw basket, my one blouse and skirt.

Why is it that as we get older we start to carry more baggage when we travel? At least I do. As a young woman I was content to move to a strange land with one small suitcase, one blouse, two homemade dresses, almost no money and a head full of dreams. Perhaps it's having the dreams and expectations of a wonderful life ahead that makes carrying an extra pair of shoes or warm sweater seem unnecessary.

Continue on to Chapter 30 Dina Moore Bowden
Go back to Chapter 28 Spindrift

Spindrift

Chapter 28

(Click to enlarge photos)

Imagine the story of a musical California socialite who falls in love with her voice professor, who marries him, gives birth to a son and eventually settles with her family in 1932 on a beautiful Mediterranean island, where they build a house on a rocky promontory overlooking a small bay, naming it Spindrift.

Foto credit to Trip Advisor Dizzyo6
The Spindrift promontory in background

This is the true story of a very special lady, Dina Moore Bowden, who became a legend both in her native California and on the island of Mallorca.
But for the moment, I will only outline the setting for this family tale, with which I was privileged to have a fleeting encounter during my years in Mallorca.

Dina Moore Bowden was the mother of George Moore Bowden, the Mr. G. mentioned in my memoir. I will tell more of her history later, but for now I want to describe my brief but memorable visits to Spindrift.

The finca or estate was built beside what was then a sleepy little beach cove called Portals Nous, at only a few kilometers from Palma, the capital city.

Foto credit to Mallorca Fact
Small cove beach at Portals Nous

Dina had chosen the image of a seahorse to represent Spindrift, to be repeated in ironwork, in decor and on the letterhead of her stationery.

Photo above from Antoni Mir's book 'Els Tres Bowden'

The land was surrounded by rock walls and at one end was the high cliff which overlooked the sea. There was a manhole built into the ground which, when raised, uncovered a secret iron ladder leading down to a small cave-like hole in the cliff wall from where one could swim. Another small ladder went into the water so one could climb down into the sea.

Following are my original black & white photos taken in 1968.


At the top of the promontory was a stone covered patio with an old millstone mounted as a table, with folding green-painted wooden chairs as well as concrete benches around the edges.


Small pine trees gave shade overhead while dry desert yuccas and succulents edged the pathways. The scent of warm pine needles was everywhere.



On one side of the patio was a wrought iron gate leading to the rough ground outside the edge of the estate. The seahorse image was at the centre.

My photo of gate from 1968

Once Mr. G., his daughter Helen and I were having a small picnic, consisting of sandwiches we had brought from the apartment while seated around the round table.

When Dina walked up to see how we were doing, she looked with some disapproval at our meager meal, saying that it wasn't really sufficient and that we should have something better than that.



I imagine that since I had recently arrived from Canada, where a picnic consisted of sandwiches, that I couldn't think of anything else to bring. However some time later, a basket arrived filled with hot and cold goodies prepared by Dina's Mallorquin cook, Catalina. I learned then that the midday meal, no matter where it was taken, should be a substantial one!


I was recently given a copy of a book written in Mallorquin by Antoni Mir I Marquès entitled 'Els Tres Bowden' (The Three Bowdens) in which he tells the story of Mr. George Charles Bowden (the father), his wife Dina Moore and their son George Moore Bowden. Although I have not a full domination of the Mallorquin language, (similar to Catalàn), I have managed to read and understand nearly all and have found background material which fills out my knowledge of the family. It is a most interesting book and I hope one day that Antoni will also publish it in English and Castellano.

Here is Antoni Mir's website. "La Guitarra Balear", written in Spanish.

I will be continuing in following entries with this story of my contacts with the Bowden family in Mallorca.

Continue on to Chapter 29 The House at Spindrift

Go back to Chapter 27 Spanish Omelette

Spanish Omelette

Chapter 27

(Click to enlarge)

La Tortilla Española

Although this is not a recipe blog I do like to occasionally show how to prepare the dishes which I learned to love after arriving in Spain. I was introduced to several by the Bowden family's Mallorquin cook, Catalina, and by Helen who showed me how she cooked Spanish style in her tiny kitchen.
Many times when we went on outings in the Citröen, whirring and jouncing across back country roads, we had a tortilla packed somewhere in a picnic basket, along with some nisperos (loquats), sobrasada, Inca biscuits and a bottle of wine.

The Spanish potato, egg and onion omelette is such a popular addition to a summer meal, or as a picnic item, since it holds up well being transported in warm weather. It's also common as a tapa, being served with a slice or two of crusty baguette bread and a small glass of vino.

Here's how I make it:

Spanish Omelette

Ingredients for 4 servings:
3 medium potatoes
3 large eggs
1 onion
salt 1/2 teasp & pepper to taste
olive oil
Italian parsley, chopped (optional)

I use a 7-inch non-stick pan as it's easy to fill, making a nice high and rounded tortilla which is easy to flip over.

1. Slice potatoes lengthwise once, then slice both pieces thinly into half moons. Chop onions into 1/4 rings.

2. Coat the bottom of the pan with oil and when hot add potatoes. Keep turning so they do not burn or go brown.
When golden, remove from pan and set aside in large bowl.

NOTE: Some folks prefer to gently boil or steam the potatoes for 5 - 10 minutes rather than fry them. I've seen it done both ways and I also like to do this.

3. Put chopped onion in pan, if necessary add a little more oil and sauté until soft, without being dark brown. Remove from pan and add to potatoes in bowl.

4. Beat the eggs in a small bowl, add salt & pepper and chopped parsley, and pour over potato & onion mixture in bowl. Turn gently to coat all.

5. Add 2 TBS oil to pan and when hot, pour in the egg, potato and onion mixture. Run the edge of a sharp knife or spatula around the rim of the pan while the egg is
setting to loosen the edges. I also poke it several times in the middle to let some of the runny egg seep down to the pan. Don't let it get too dark or burn.

6. When the edges are set and the middle is still half runny hold a plate over the top and flip pan and all over on to the plate and gently slide it back into the pan.
Don't overcook as the centre should still be juicy.

7. Let cook a minute or two more on that side, then slide it out onto a plate.

8. Cut into wedges as a luncheon dish, or into small squares with toothpicks to be served on a buffet or as a tapa. Or keep it whole to take on a picnic.

The edges should be fat and firmly rounded. If you've never tried making one before, start with a small non-stick pan and when you're an expert move up to a larger pan. A small 7 inch pan will make a nice luncheon omelette for two.


Once you've made a tortilla and have mastered the knack of flipping it over, I'm sure you will find it a welcome addition to your picnics, luncheons or tapas menus.
I hope you like it!

Tortilla for One

Continue on to Chapter 28 Spindrift
Go back to Chapter 26 Driving the Island

Driving the Island

Chapter 26

Driving around Mallorca with Mr. G and Helen was a great treat on weekends when we would climb into the Citroën deux chevaux and join the other domingueros ....Sunday drivers...for excursions around the island. There were so many wonderful places to discover and so many little villages with restaurants that served delicious Mallorcan country cuisine. Other times we would pack a picnic lunch of tortilla, sobrasada, baguettes, cheese, olives and wine.

Mallorcan Sobrasada Sausage
Photo courtesy of gastrotourspain

(click photos to enlarge)

I had a little German Voigtländer 35mm camera at the time and as I couldn't afford colour film (thank heavens, I say now) I limited myself then to black and white photography, which now has a nostalgic appeal. One of the villages we visited was Bunyola, situated at about 14 kms from Palma, in the Sierra Tramuntana mountains. The name of the town used to be spelled in Castellano as Buñola (as on my photos) but it is written nowadays the Mallorquin way as Bunyola.

Here are some photos I took as we walked through Bunyola in 1968.




Sometimes we would go to a beach where we would pass by a farmyard. Here George Bowden greets a friendly burro.
Oh where did he go?
Here's a view of a Mallorcan vineyard.
Image courtesy of Mallorca Wine Express:

Here I am standing in the Gardens of Alfabia on another outing:
I bought that poncho when I arrived and wore it everywhere. I didn't bring an overcoat as I thought it was never chilly in Spain!

Continue on to Chapter 27 Spanish Omelette

Go back to Chapter 25......Sopas Mallorquinas

Sopas Mallorquinas

Chapter 25

(click to enlarge)

Sopas Mallorquinas - Vegetable and bread stew from Mallorca

This is a much loved hearty meatless peasant dish from the Balearic island of Mallorca. Although called 'sopas' or soup, it is actually a stew-like combination of available winter vegetables such as chard, cabbage and cauliflower cooked in water, oil, garlic, paprika and salt, which is then poured over thinly-shaven slices of dry salt-free country bread - called sopas - which are a day or two old. These thin bread slices are available in nearly every corner 'colmado' - as the small neighbourhood grocery stores are called. Those who have grown up with sopas Mallorquinas on the table will probably look forward to having it many times more. You can prepare this dish and have it ready in less than an hour.

Ingredients for 4 persons:

1/2 lb (200 grams) of thinly shaven slices of country bread
A dense country-style bread is needed for this and it should be stale, dry and sliced paper thin.

approx. 8 young leaves & stems of Swiss chard roughly chopped
small cabbage - roughly chopped
1 onion cut in julienne
handful of flatleaf Italian parsley roughly chopped
cauliflower - a few florets broken in pieces
1 ripe tomato, peeled and diced
2 teasp sweet paprika powder
4 TBS olive oil
2 green peppers - cut in large dice
2 to 3 cups water
optional: chicken stock cube
salt
fresh ground black pepper
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed

1) Put the oil in a shallow flame-proof earthenware or ceramic casserole. When oil is hot, add the onion, green pepper and garlic. Sauté without browning.

2) Add the tomato and the large diced vegetables. Sweat the vegetables and blend in the paprika powder. Season with salt & fresh ground pepper.

3) Add the water and let simmer gently for about 15 - 20 minutes, then taste to check seasoning. (Note: After pouring in the water I added a Knorr or Spanish Avecrem chicken stock cube, broken up and scattered over top.)

4) Once vegetables are tender, turn off stove, remove them from the pot with a slotted spoon and transfer them to a warm bowl, leaving the broth in the casserole dish. There should be about an inch of broth.

5) Arrange the thin shaven slices of dry bread over the bottom of the casserole dish so the broth is totally absorbed, and put the vegetables back in the casserole on top of the bread. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving at the table.

6) Serve at the table in the same earthenware casserole dish.

NOTES: The bread used in this recipe is typical to Mallorca and is a simple bread made of unbleached partially whole wheat flour, water and yeast. It is therefore dense and able to absorb the broth without becoming mushy.

There are many variations of 'sopas mallorquinas' as the ingredients depend on what is available in the garden at the time. However those listed above are the main ones used and will give the true flavour of this dish.

Continue on to Chapter 26......Driving the Island

Go back to Chapter 24......Cayetano, The Gypsy

Cayetano, The Gypsy

Chapter 24

Image adapted from:DeFlamenco.com
(Click to enlarge photos)

Cayetano was a flamenco guitar player ....de raza gitana....of gypsy race...who was a good friend of Mr. George Bowden and his family.
Cayetano performed some evenings at The Guitar Centre in Palma and although he wasn't the best of flamenco guitarists, he could be counted on to arrive and perform on time. Tall, slim and with collar-length black hair, he had the strong facial features of his race. With his black eyes and swarthy skin his appearance attracted admiring glances, and when he appeared in his black suit with white shirt open at the neck, his hair slicked down with brilliantine, he looked all the part of a flamenco guitar player....de raza gitana.

He sold bolts of cloth in the market and was married with young children. He was quite poor and often didn't manage to have enough to eat. I remember one time when Cayetano and José Cobos, another flamenco guitarist, were up at the apartment with Mr. G. and Helen after a performance, Cayetano mentioned that he hadn't eaten in two days. Without a hesitation, Helen went to the kitchen and in no time prepared him a meal of hamburger patties, peas and chips. He was very hungry and ate quickly.

George Bowden with one of his guitars

While I was teaching guitar at the Guitar Centre I was for a time also trying out a flamenco guitar
loaned to me by Mr. George Bowden, from his factory in the Pueblo Español. Flamenco models have a lighter construction and thinner body in order to give the brilliant sound needed for flamenco playing, as opposed to the deeper, more mellow sound of the classical guitar.
Mr. G. would sometimes take one of his flamenco guitars to Cayetano and ask him to try it out for sound.

At the Palma Guitar Centre Studio

I never really learned how to play flamenco properly and I believe the rhythms and melodies are instilled as a heritage from early childhood. But I had been practising a few simple versions of Soleares and Bulerias shown me by Bill Lewis when I lived in Vancouver. The music had been arranged by the maestro Bartolomé Calatayud, the beloved Mallorquin guitarist, composer and teacher.

I was very much attracted to the sounds and rhythms of flamenco and when I met Cayetano we agreed that he would give me a few lessons. He came to the makeshift music studio in the guitar centre that I had been using, where an internal door led to the small one room home of Jeremy, the scuba diving instructor.

As I mentioned earlier, Jeremy would sometimes appear in the middle of a lesson with his flippers, tanks and diving gear to disappear into his cubbyhole residence. I enjoyed learning from Cayetano although at that point in time I could barely speak Spanish. I communicated with my own Spanish pupils by hand gestures and the few words I had written down which covered the parts of the guitar and basic instructions.

So I was very pleased when, one day after I had taken a few lessons from Cayetano he got up from his chair and started to dance to my playing. Oh yes that was thrilling, although I was hardly able to keep up with him, he paid me the compliment of affecting that with my attempts at playing Bulerias I could stir his gypsy temperament into dancing.
Dear Cayetano, I hope life has been good to you since then.

Here is an amazing video of a little gypsy girl dancing Bulerías to the sound of many olés and with all the spirit of a grown woman.



And here is another video of Bulerías danced in an authentic setting:



Continue on to Chapter 25......Sopas Mallorquinas

Go back to Chapter 23......A Night in Tagomago

A Night in Tagomago

Chapter 23

This is a photo collage. (click photos to enlarge)

Loli and I were still working as extras in the movie being made in Palma de Mallorca.

One evening we were taken to a popular nightclub called Tagomago, which was run by Los Valldemosa, a musical group at the time consisting of three young Mallorquin men, Rafael, Bernat, Tomeu and a pretty blonde American girl, Genia.

The men were from the village of Valldemosa, a lovely place in the mountains where Chopin and his mistress, George Sand (her pen name) spent a rather chilly winter in the monastery, la cartuja, years ago. The group was popular in the Balearic Isles, had travelled and performed worldwide and had made several records for the Belter Discos company. They did a good rendition of "The Banks of The Ohio" as well as everyone's favourite, played over and over again in parties and barbecues for tourists "Na Catalina de Plaça", in which the audience joined in for the chorus of Cua - Cua- Cua.

Along with Los Valldemosa, was Salomé, the singer with whom we had been performing in previous days in both the bullring and the Pueblo Español. She would also be singing for us in Tagomago.

Loli had informed me that for this shoot we would have to wear something suitable for a nightclub outing. At that time, nightclubs were very popular, since there was yet no colour television to keep people sitting at home. It was customary to go out to the open bars and patio cafes, to drink coffee and liqueurs while watching people go by. Otherwise one went to a dance hall or on special occasions, to a nightclub which at that time were were quite civilized. Guests sat at tables, usually with a drink, while watching the show and applauding the artists. During intermission, they danced to recorded music in a small centre dance floor.

So after I borrowed a dress to wear, we arrived at Tagomago and were ushered to our seats near the stage and given a soft drink, made to look like a cocktail with a pretty straw and cherry.
There were few choices in soft drinks in those years.

There was Coca-Cola and Tri-Naranjus and that was about all. One didn't ask for a 'Coke' because that was an expression unknown over here. One requested it by the full name...'Coca-Cola' and it came in a very small bottle. The other drink available was Tri-Naranjus, which was a watery, non-carbonated orange drink, which after I'd tried it for a few months, became quite palatable to my taste.

Those who lived there at the time will remember how a large bottle of Tri-Na was always included in our straw baskets for a trip to the beach.

Anyway, we had a good evening at Tagomago, sipping orange, applauding, smiling and listening to Salomé and Los Valldemosa while the cameras rolled.

Here is a retro recording of Los Valldemosa performing in Tagomago. Unfortunately the sound is not too good, so you have to use your imagination to hear it Hi-Fi (smile).



Continue on to Chapter 24......Cayetano, The Gypsy

Go back to Chapter 22......Making The Movie